600 steps are no joke but the climb is worth it

Want to walk across the majestic Catawba River on stepping stones without ever getting your feet wet?

It can be done. Just not in Burke County.

Instead, you have to hike uphill for nearly two miles, climb nearly 600 steps, and scamper precariously across a grated-surface, open-stepped observation tower to get to that point high on a mountainside in McDowell County.

But, thanks to nearly two years worth of work and investment by the National Forest Service, that hike can now safely be made with views of both Lower Catawba Falls and Upper Catawba Falls along the way.

Lower Catawba Falls has been a popular destination for decades for hikers from across Western North Carolina. But the “trail” to the Lower Falls forced hikers to scramble across slippery rocks and over historic ruins from an old textile operation.

Upper Catawba Falls could be reached also but only by a dangerous trek up very steep slopes and across slippery rocks, sometimes aided by improvised rope ladders.

Several people perished over the years after slipping and falling from those dangerous heights.

The National Forest Service acquired the site from the Foothills Land Conservancy in 2006.

Between 2010 and 2016, trailhead parking and restrooms were added, and one mile of trail was upgraded including the installation of two bridges at river crossings that increased accessibility, safety, and water quality along much of the trail.

However, after crossing the second bridge visitors had to travel through a boulder field with no clear path to reach Lower Catawba Falls.

The National Forest Service announced it was closing the Catawba Falls area to public visitation in the spring of 2022, with plans focused on improving access to the Lower Falls.

Later, in the early spring of 2023, it was announced that the closure would continue for at least another year as the National Forest Service received additional funding to build retaining walls, boardwalks, staircases, and overlooks all the way to the Upper Falls as well.

The Forest Service improvements also included construction of an entirely new trail — the 2.1-mile Ridge Trail on the south side of the Catawba — allowing hikers to make a loop and not have to cover the same ground twice.

The entire trail system officially reopened on the morning of Friday, May 21, but my hiking friends Kevin and Ginny Rector and I decided to hold off on our initial exploration for a couple of weeks, giving the crowds time to die down.

A Busy Monday

We arrived at the trailhead, a few miles southwest of the Old Fort exit off Interstate 40, just before 10 a.m. on Monday, June 17. We were surprised to find the parking lot filling rapidly on what is usually the quietest travel day of the week.

The day was overcast and seemingly cool, but we began to feel the effects of the high humidity almost as soon as we started hiking, for the trail quickly began to climb as it paralleled the Catawba River.

About that river. At this point, it is about the same size as Hoyle Creek as it runs through Valdese Lakeside Park. A couple of fairly good-sized creeks flow into the river as it drops down from the mountain. At the top, the majestic Catawba is tiny indeed.

The first half mile of the trail is a gradual climb. Enough to get the heart beating faster, the lungs laboring more heavily, and the sweat trickling off the brow.

And then, the stairway system comes into view, climbing up and up and up on the north side of the river. At the bottom of the stairway is a bench. Sit down. Drink some water. Pray for strength.

You will need it.

Here the trail begins its climb up nearly 600 stair steps. That’s a lot of steps. Yet each step brings better views of the tumbling waters of the Lower Falls, literally a half dozen channels of water cascading some 250 feet over a jumble of rocks toward a large pool at the bottom.

Viewing platforms interrupt the climb at regular intervals. Take your time. Catch your breath. Sit if the platform has a bench. More climbing lies ahead.

The Observation Tower

In reading about the 60-foot observation tower that had been constructed as part of this project, I thought the tower stood off to the side of the trail. No, the trail climbs right over it.

Issue here. The tower’s steps are open. Issue two here. The tower’s viewing platforms, like the steps, are not made of good old solid wood but of open, metal grates. Issue three here. This old man doesn’t like looking down and seeing a lot of holes.

I did OK for the first four or five flights of open stairs and the corresponding walks across the open grates of the viewing platforms. Nearing the top, however, I could feel my nerve slipping away and my legs literally starting to tremble.

Upon finally reaching the top, I had to sit on a bench and quiver for a few minutes, waiting for my heart to stop hammering against my chest and for nightmare visions of falling hundreds of feet to subside.

Only after rest, water, and consuming a comforting pack of Lance crackers was I able to walk back out on the tower’s top platform and actually enjoy the view stretching out across the valley.

After descending from the tower, the trail continues climbing, but not for long. After that easy stream crossing of which I wrote earlier, the 90-foot Upper Falls is visible to the right. An observation tower which will provide a closer look at the falls is still under construction.

Final Thoughts

If I had thought I had to make my way back down those 600 stairs to get back to our vehicle, I would have crumpled to the ground and wept.

Instead, we faced a fairly long (2.1-mile) but relatively gentle descent through hardwood forests on the Ridge Trail.

My Garmin watch showed we had walked 4.15 miles when we returned to the parking lot in just under three hours. Not exactly a blistering pace, but I would not have wanted to go any faster.

Will I do this trail again? Absolutely. Probably on a Monday morning in mid-to-late October when the autumn colors are at their peak and the air is crisp and cool.

Do I recommend this trail to others? Again, absolutely. But only to those who are in good health and whose legs are in shape. Nearly 600 steps are no joke. They will tell on you if you’re not prepared.

Best thing about the trail? A tie. Each of the waterfalls is truly beautiful. A living reminder of the wonders of our region. But beautiful too is the engineering know-how and the intricate construction of the steps and boardwalks and platforms and tower.

Final verdict? A butt-kicker of a hike but one that is well worth the effort.

Bill Poteat, who would always rather be outside than inside, is editor emeritus of The Paper. He may be reached at 828-445-8595.